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To define the irrigation times, some reasoning is necessary. Starting from the assumption that, each area is made correctly with the covers and therefore on the basis of a good project, there would be an average value of optimal precipitation for the lawn that is around 5mm per square meter (the equivalent of 5lt per square meter) that would be used to make the reference calculations but which would then have to be retouched in relation to the type of soil that you have that is +/- draining (therefore sandy or clayey) Which affect in making a single irrigation or oblige several departures allowing the soil to absorb the totality of the daily planned water. At this point to identify the timing you will have to calculate the square meters of your garden (as a macro-data). If for example you have calculated 200 square meters you will have to multiply them x 5 (which are 5lt / sqm = to 5mm / sqm) and you will find that your lawn (we are estimating) will need in an optimal phase of 1,000 liters per cycle to establish the 5mm of water on the entire surface. If in the average of the areas the consumption is 40 lt / min (the consumption of the area you get by adding the consumption of each sprinkler) you will make 1,000 / 40 = 25 min per area. Now, this is the calculation theory at the time of greatest need, that is in the period of June, July and August, while for the other months you will have to use the percentage of wetting (Water Budget) reducing it even reaching 30/45% from the maximum value in the period of March-October. As a reflection I could say that then you will have to adapt values for your area, the location of the garden with respect to the North and the type of soil. If you had different sprinklers in the same plant such as static and turbine you could, to be more precise, having the turbine and static different working times, do the reasoning of the square meters linked, not to the whole lawn but, to the working area of the 2 types of sprinkler to proceed with the same method and have a more correct starting point. You will have to keep the first period under observation of the lawn to see the effects. Remember, better a lawn slightly suffering, with the timing to then correct them, than too much water, because fungal diseases and all the costs of treatment to recover it will also enter the field. Finally, if you are not satisfied with the results, you could opt for the surgical solution always starting from the principle of 5 mm, taking saucers (smooth), putting them scattered in the area you want to test to measure the real precipitation in mm and then adapting the times to obtain that value and a correct absorption of the soil.